Republic of Toma

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Redentore

It’s 11.30pm. July 18 2020 and Venice is silent. We are the on the vaporetto returning home from a day trip to a Valdobbiene to replenish my cantina with Prosecco. It’s the first time I’ve left town in 6 months - since the pandemic struck. Paris has Bastille Day. America has 4th of July. Venice has Redentore. Today is Redentore. The feast of the most holy redeemer, honored every year since 1576 in gratitude for the ending of that plague. A lone boat glides up the Grand Canal decorated in Chinese lanterns. We returned back to Venice tonight day 1 of vacation because this is the most important day of the year in Venice. It’s the anniversary of the day the cornerstone was laid on the Redentore Church after the Doge prayed for the salvation of his people from the Black Death and restoration of society. He promised to build a church if the plague ended. Heaven listened to his petition and each year since - except this year 2020 - a celebration took place. Normally at 11.30pm boats crowd together in the lagoon to watch the fireworks- fuochi d'artificio. Preparations begin early in the morning when people begin to decorate their boats. At sunset the basin of San Marco begins to fill with up with boats festooned with balloons and garland as Venetians await the fireworks while dining on the water. Tonight it’s silent. Sunday, tomorrow is a day dedicated to thr pilgrimage across Da Ponte a temporarily built bridge of barges that stretch from the Zattere to the tabernacle to say thanks. While fireworks were canceled this year, the temporary bridge- which will last 24 hours - to make the pilgrimage was build. Tomorrow morning before day tripping to see the Palladium villas outside of Venice we will start the day, walking across the water to the Guidecca to offer prayers, petition and gratitude.


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